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Before You Read

Our dedicated support staff is available to answer any questions you have.

Email: [email protected]
Phone (M-F 9am – 5pm Pacific Time): +1 619-215-1999

Auction Basics

Registering to bid is a straightforward process designed to get you ready for the auction floor as quickly as possible. There is no registration fee required to participate.

Step-by-Step Registration

  1. New Users: Register a new account [here].
  2.  Existing Users: Log in to your account by clicking [here].
  3. Access Your Dashboard: Once logged in, navigate to the Account Info section.
  4. Secure Your Payment Method: Scroll to the bottom of the page to add a valid credit or debit card.
  5. Submit: Save your details to finalize your registration.

Why do I need to add a card?

While browsing and registering are free, we keep a payment method on file to ensure a seamless transition if you win an auction. If you are the highest bidder, the buyer’s fees will be automatically collected using this card.

The Minimum Bid Increments

Minimum bid increments for all auctions are determined by the high bid as follows:

  • $100 minimum: High bid is $0 – $9,999
  • $250 minimum: High bid is $10,000 – $49,999
  • $500 minimum: High bid is $50,000 – $99,999
  • $1,000 minimum: High bid is $100,000+

Pro Tip: You can always bid more than the minimum increment if you want to jump ahead of the competition, but the system will never allow a bid that is lower than the current minimum required bid.

Maximum Allowed Bid

To prevent accidental huge bids, we cap the maximum bid at 10X the current high bid once bidding has reached $20,000. This prevents the “fat finger bid” where a bidder accidentally types an extra zero when they place a bid.

We’ve all seen it on other sites: a bidder waits until the literal last second to place a bid, giving no one else time to react. This is called “sniping.” At Buy The Car, we use a Soft Close (also known as Sniping Protection) to ensure every bidder has a fair shot at the winning bid.

How it Works

Our system monitors the final moments of every auction. If a bid is placed within the last 2 minutes of the countdown:

  • The Reset: The auction clock automatically resets back to 2 minutes remaining.
  • The Extension: This process repeats every time a new bid is placed during that final window.
  • The Conclusion: The auction only ends when a full 2 minutes pass without any new bids being entered.

Why We Use It

  • Eliminates “Last-Second” Luck: Winning should be about who is willing to pay the most, not who has the fastest internet connection or the best timing.
  • Fairness for All: It gives previous bidders time to consider their “top dollar” and respond thoughtfully rather than being shut out by a computer script.
  • Higher Value for Sellers: By allowing the natural “bidding war” to play out to its logical conclusion, sellers are more likely to achieve the true market value for their classic American car.

Pro Tip for Bidders: Don’t wait until the clock shows 0:01 to bid! Because of the 2-minute reset, there is no advantage to waiting until the very last second. Place your bid when you’re ready, and the clock will give everyone else a fair chance to respond.

In almost all cases, no. A bid on Buy The Car is a commitment to purchase the vehicle at that price. When you place a bid, the seller and the rest of the community are relying on that number being a serious offer.

The “Typo” Exception

We understand that mistakes happen, especially in the heat of a fast-moving auction. We will only consider voiding a bid under the following strict “Accidental Entry” criteria:

  • Obvious Error: The bid must be a clear mistyped amount (e.g., entering $250,000 when the previous bid was $24,000. We already try to mitigate this with the maximum bid rule mentioned above).
  • Immediate Contact: You must contact our support team within 5 minutes of the mistake while the auction is still live.
  • Our Discretion: We reserve the right to review the bidding history and determine if the request is genuine.

What happens if a bid is voided? If we approve a voided bid:

  1. Bid Removal: The erroneous bid is removed from the history.
  2. Current High Bid: The high bid will revert to the previous valid bid.
  3. Other Bids Remain: Any bids placed after the voided bid (from other users) remain valid and active.

Why is this policy so strict?

A “canceled” bid can damage the momentum of an auction and discourage other legitimate bidders. To keep the marketplace fair for the seller and other enthusiasts, we expect all bidders to perform their due diligence—including reviewing photos and asking questions—before they hit the bid button.

Pro Tip: Always double-check your numbers before clicking “Confirm Bid.” If you are using a mobile device, be extra careful with extra zeros!

All auctions on BuyTheCar have a hidden reserve price unless otherwise highlighted with “No Reserve” flags on the listing page.

If the bidding ends and the high bid is still below the agreed-upon reserve, the vehicle officially remains unsold. However, this is often where negotiations and deals can be made.

The “High Bidder” Advantage

At Buy The Car, we prioritize the person who showed the most commitment during the auction, and that is the highest bidder. Immediately after the close:

  • Direct Connection: We provide the seller and the highest bidder‘s contact information in case the seller wants to make a deal.
  • Exclusive Negotiation: This gives the high bidder the opportunity to negotiate a private deal with the seller.

Bridging the Gap

Many “unsold” auctions actually result in a sale within 24 hours of closing. Common outcomes include:

  • Meeting in the Middle: The seller may decide to lower their expectations slightly, or the buyer may increase their offer to close the gap.

If a deal is reached with any of the bidders, we will collect the buyer’s fee from the buyer. See more about the buyer’s fee in the next section “Fees & Total Cost”.

If a Deal Isn’t Reached

If the seller and high bidder cannot agree on a price:

  • Underbidder Option: If the seller wishes, we can provide the seller with the first underbidder’s contact information.
  • The Listing Remains a No-Sale: The auction remains in a closed “bid-to” status.
  • Re-listing Options: The seller can work with us to re-list the car at a later date, often with a lower reserve or as a “No Reserve” auction to stimulate new interest.

Pro Tip for Bidders: If you really want the car, make sure you are the high bidder when the clock stops—the seller is the only person who knows if the reserve is met. Being the high bidder is the only way to ensure you either win the auction outright or secure a deal with the seller.

Fees & Total Cost

The buyer’s fee (also known as a “buyer’s premium”) is the service fee paid to Buy The Car by the winning bidder. This fee allows us to maintain a high-quality marketplace, vet listings, and provide support throughout the auction process.

Our Standard Fee Structure

Our standard fee for buyers is 5% of the final sale price, with the following safeguards:

  • Minimum Fee: $250
  • Maximum Fee: $5,000 (No matter how high the winning bid goes, your fee will never exceed this amount.)

How is it paid?

  • Authorization: When you place your first bid, our system will place a temporary “hold” on your credit card for the minimum fee amount.
  • Winning Bid: If you win the auction, the 5% fee is charged directly to your card on file.
  • Losing Bid: If you are outbid, the temporary hold on your card is released at the end of the auction.

Note: The buyer’s fee is separate from the final sale price of the vehicle. The winning bid amount is paid directly to the seller, while the buyer’s fee is paid to the auction platform.

After winning an auction on Buy The Car, the next cost buyers immediately think about is shipping. Shipping costs will always vary by factors like:

  • vehicle size
  • open or enclosed trailers
  • the distance between the buyer and the seller

Getting Shipping Quotes & Hiring Transport

  • Unless you are picking the car up in person, you will need to hire a transport company. DO NOT ask sellers for shipping quotes. It is your job as the buyer to shop for shipping quotes. A great resource for estimating shipping based on your situation can be found here: https://thedailyvroom.com/shipping-calculator

When you win an auction on Buy The Car, the hammer price is just the first step. To avoid surprises, we recommend calculating your total investment using this formula:

The Purchase Price & Fees

  • The Final Bid: The amount you agreed to pay the seller for the vehicle.
  • The Buyer’s Fee: Our standard fee is 5% with a $250 minimum and $5,000 maximum.

Taxes and Government Fees

  • Sales Tax: This is usually paid to your local DMV when you register the car. Rates vary by state and county.
  • Registration & Title: The administrative cost to put the car in your name.

Transport and Logistics

  • Shipping: Unless you are picking the car up in person, you will need to hire a transport company. DO NOT ask sellers for shipping quotes. It is your job as the buyer to shop for shipping quotes.

Post-Sale Costs

  • Classic Car Insurance: Standard insurance often doesn’t cover the “Agreed Value” of a vintage car. Look into specialty providers like Hagerty or Grundy.

No. The final bid amount (the “hammer price”) is the amount paid directly to the seller for the vehicle itself. All government-mandated fees are separate and are the responsibility of the buyer.

To keep our marketplace fair and secure, we use a two-step verification process for your buyer’s fee. This ensures that every bidder has a verified payment method on file.
 
1. The Initial “Bid Authorization” (The Hold)

When you place your very first bid on an auction, our system places a temporary authorization hold on your card.

  • The Amount: 5% of your initial bid (minimum $250).
  • The Purpose: This isn’t a “charge” yet—it’s a way for us to verify that your payment method is active and ready for the potential purchase.
  • If You Lose: If you are outbid and do not win the auction, this hold is automatically released at the end of the auction by our system (though your bank may take 3–5 business days to reflect this on your statement).

     

2. The “Winning Adjustment” (The 2nd Charge)

If you continue to bid and eventually win the auction, we need to settle the final buyer’s fee based on your winning bid, not just your first one.

  • The Conversion: Your initial hold is converted into a permanent charge.
  • The Difference: If your winning bid was higher than your first bid, we place a second charge for the remaining balance of the 5% fee.

A Quick Example:

  1. Your 1st Bid ($10,000): We place a $500 hold (5% of $10k) on your card.
  2. The Bidding War: You keep bidding until you win the car at $25,000.
  3. The Settlement: * The original $500 hold becomes a charge.
  4. The remaining difference between the first bid hold ($500) and the 5% of the final bid (5% of 25k – $1250), is also charged ($1250-$500 = $750).
 

Vehicle Condition and Inspections

Yes, and we highly recommend it. While we strive for transparency in every listing, a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) provides an extra layer of confidence before you commit to a bid.

How to Arrange an Inspection

  1. Coordinate with the Seller: Use the “Contact Seller“ feature on the auction listing to reach out to the seller and let them know you’d like to schedule a PPI. Sellers are generally happy to accommodate serious bidders.
  2. Choose a Professional: You are responsible for selecting and hiring a reputable, independent mechanic or inspection service in the seller’s local area.
  3. Cover the Cost: All costs associated with the inspection are the responsibility of the potential buyer.
  4. Review the Report: Once the inspection is complete, you’ll receive a professional breakdown of the vehicle’s condition to help you determine your maximum bid.

Remote Bidding Tip: If you aren’t local to the vehicle, there are several nationwide mobile inspection services that can travel to the seller’s location and send you a digital report with detailed photos. Popular options include:

  • POMCAR: Known for detailed 270-point inspections with packages starting around $180–$195.
  • Lemon Squad: Offers specialized “Classic Car” inspections for vehicles 20 years or older, focusing on age deterioration, rust, and engine/transmission numbers.
  • AiM (Alliance Inspection Management): Provides certified inspections across the U.S. and is a frequent partner for major automotive marketplaces.

Important Reminder: Please try to schedule your PPI as early as possible during the auction week. This ensures the inspector has time to visit the car and you have time to review the results before the bidding ends!

We believe transparency is the key to a great auction. To help you bid with confidence, we provide several layers of information for every vehicle listed on Buy The Car.

The Listing Dossier

Every auction is required to meet a high standard of documentation, which includes:

  • Comprehensive Photo Galleries: We provide 50–100+ high-resolution images covering the exterior, interior, engine bay, and—most importantly—the underbody.
  • Detailed Descriptions: Sellers provide a narrative of the vehicle’s life, including modifications, known flaws, and recent service.
  • Documentation: We encourage sellers to upload photos or scans of maintenance records, original window stickers, and title information.
  • Video Walkarounds (when applicable): Most listings should include a cold-start video and a driving video so you can hear the engine and see the car in motion.

Direct Seller Interaction

If you have a specific question that isn’t answered in the description, you have two powerful tools:

  • The Comments Section: Located at the bottom of every live auction. This is a public forum where you can ask the seller for clarification. This is great for the community, as the seller’s answer helps everyone.
  • “Contact Seller” Button: Use this for private inquiries or to arrange a viewing/inspection (as mentioned in our PPI guide).

Pro Tip: Always check the “Comments” section first! Often, another enthusiast has already asked the same question, and the seller may have already provided the answer or uploaded additional photos in a reply.

Communication between buyers and sellers is the heartbeat of our auctions. We provide two ways to get the answers you need:

  1. The Public Comment Section: For questions about the vehicle’s condition, history, or specific features, we recommend using the Comments Section at the bottom of the auction listing.
    • Why use it? When a seller answers a public question, it helps all potential bidders feel more confident. It’s the best place to ask for additional photos or clarification on maintenance records.
    • Community Insight: Our community of enthusiasts often chimes in with helpful knowledge about specific makes and models, too!

  2. Direct Private Messaging: If you have a private inquiry—such as scheduling a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) or arranging a time to view the car in person—you should contact the seller directly.
    • How to do it: Click on the “Contact Seller” button on a listing to trigger an email form. From there, you’ll be able to send an email message to the seller.

Pro Tip: Sellers who are active in the comments section typically see more bidding activity. If you’re a bidder, don’t be shy! Asking questions early in the auction week gives the seller plenty of time to respond.

No. Because we specialize in classic vehicles (1985 and older), they are sold “As-Is, Where-Is.” This is the industry standard for vintage automobile auctions. 

BuyTheCar does not provide warranties on vehicles or vehicle purchases.

After The Auction

  1. The Buyer’s Fee (Instant): As soon as the timer hits zero and you are declared the winner, the Buyer’s Fee is automatically charged to the credit card you have on file.
    1. Standard: 5% of the final bid (min $250 / max $5,000).
    2. This fee is paid to Buy The Car to finalize the sale and provide you with the seller’s direct contact information.
  2. The Vehicle Price (Direct to Seller): You pay the Final Bid Price directly to the seller. We recommend completing this within 48 to 72 hours of the auction close. Recommended Payment Methods:
    1. Verified Checkout with KeySavvy: Buyers can use a safe and secure payment portal provided by our partner KeySavvy. Add a bank and the funds will be sent securely to the seller’s bank account quickly. This is our recommended option for both buyers and sellers.
    2. Bank Wire Transfer: This is a fast and secure method for large sums. Funds are usually verified quickly, allowing the seller to release the title and vehicle in a timely manner.
    3. Other Options: You are welcome to use other options such as cashier’s check, but Verified Checkout and bank wire transfer are going to be the safest options.
  3. The “Paperwork” Handshake: Once the seller confirms receipt of your funds:
    1. Title Transfer: The seller signs the title over to you and mails it along with maintenance records, owner’s manual, aftermarket parts manuals, and/or parts receipts (we recommend trackable overnight mail).
    2. Bill of Sale: You both sign a Bill of Sale for your records and for your local DMV.
    3. Transport: Once you have the green light that payment is clear, you can send your transport company to pick up your new ride or pick it up yourself!

Pro Tip: If you are paying via wire transfer, always call the seller to verify the wire instructions over the phone before sending the money. This is a simple but effective way to prevent wire fraud and ensure your hard-earned money goes to the right place.

Once you’ve won the auction and finalized payment with the seller, it’s time to get your vehicle home. As the buyer, you have full control over who handles your new investment. You can pick up the vehicle yourself, or use shipping services around the country. Since it is your responsibility to arrange shipping, do not ask sellers for shipping quotes at any time during or after the auction.

  1. Choose Your Transport Type: There are two main ways to ship a classic car, and your choice depends on your budget and the car’s condition:
    • Enclosed Transport (Recommended)
    • Open Transport
  2. Get Quotes and Book a Carrier: You can use specialized automotive transport brokers or direct carriers. There are many free web services that can calculate rough estimates for shipping like The Daily Vroom’s Shipping Calculator.
    • Pro Tip: You can use KeySavvy for support with transport services
  3. Coordinate with the Seller: Once you have a carrier booked:
    • Share Contact Info: Give the shipping company the seller’s phone number and address.
    • Confirm Pickup Window: Carriers usually provide a 1–2 day window for pickup. Make sure the seller is available to meet the driver and hand over the keys.
  4. The Bill of Lading (BOL): When the driver arrives at the seller’s location, they will perform a “Condition Report.” The seller will sign this Bill of Lading to confirm the car’s state at pickup. You will receive a copy of this upon delivery to ensure no new damage occurred during transit.
  1. Payment Verification: The seller will typically not release or sign the title until they have confirmed that your funds have fully cleared their bank account. If you pay via KeySavvy’s Verified Checkout or wire transfer, this usually happens within 24 hours. If you pay by cashier’s check, the seller may wait 3–7 business days to ensure the check is valid.

  2. Signing the Title: Once paid, the seller must sign the “Assignment of Title” section on the back of the document.
  3. Delivery Method: Never have the seller leave the title inside the car during transport. If the transport truck is delayed, stolen, or the car is broken into, the title could be lost.
    • Recommended: Ask the seller to send the signed title via a trackable overnight service (FedEx, UPS, or USPS Priority Express).
    • Bill of Sale: The seller should include a signed Bill of Sale in the same package. You will need the Title and sometimes the Bill of Sale to register the car in your home state.

  4. Liens and Loans: If the seller still has a loan on the vehicle, the bank (lienholder) holds the title. In this case, your payment goes to the bank to pay off the loan, and the bank will then release the title directly to you or the seller.

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